The wife has traveled back to Columbus Ohio to visit friends and family. I'm not really alone though, I've had my youngest grand-daughter to keep me company this weekend. She's stayed both nights (have I become so old that I require a babysitter?). Although she mostly has her nose in the Ipad, it's nice to have company for dinner. She and I have different tastes regarding meals so we compromised and had Taco Bell Friday night and KFC last night. I'll probably cook breakfast this morning (assuming she gets up before lunch).
I recently read Dane Coolidge's book
"Arizona Cowboys". It was originally published in 1938. He was a photographer who traveled the West recording flora, fauna and frontier life. "Arizona Cowboys" is a narrative of his times spent with cowboys and cattlemen in the Arizona of the early 1900's. It gives a good description of the times and certainly redefines some of the Hollywood notions of rodeo and sheep-cattle conflicts. The book also explains how overgrazing by sheep and cattle were destroying the grasslands around the Tonto Basin and Salt River watershed leading to erosion problems that could threaten the water projects being developed. The Tonto National Forest was a direct result.

It turns out that a rodeo was work not sport in the late 1800's and early 1900's. It was a time when cattle owners got together to gather up their stock. Not all cattlemen were ranchers, some were just individuals who branded a few head of stock and turned them loose on the open range. A rodeo was arranged so that all owners could participate in the roundup and be available to identify their branded stock and to claim any new calves belonging to their stock. By the way, there's still at least one bovine roaming around near Coon Bluff. I've seen it's tracks and spoor but haven't been around early enough to see it. By the time I get out, it's probably laying in cover chewing its cud.
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The proof may be clearer to those of us who have spent time cleaning up after cattle and also recognize the split hoof print. |
One series of the Coolidge stories were recorded in the area along Cottonwood Creek north of what is now Saguaro Lake (the lake appeared 1930). There were several ranches between Mesa and the Tonto Basin (Roosevelt Lake now). I believe that the largest was probably the Stewart Ranch (under the lake now at Butcher Jones Beach) but Dr. W.W. Jones and his brother-in-law Francisco "Pancho" Monroy also had ranches in the area. The Monroy Ranch is shown on
1904 topo maps at a bend in the River near the present day Usery Rd. intersection. I'm not sure of the details yet but Dr. Jones is said to have had a couple places along the river. There's a Jone's Ford (river crossing, not car showroom) shown near the Verde River, Jones Canyon and Butcher Jones Beach near Saguaro Lake and a Jone's Creek near Cottonwood Creek, these could be clues the locations of Dr' Jone's places. There are several signs of ranching near this area. The most extensive are near Jone's Ford north of the Forest Service Goldfield admin site.
The Monroy Ranch is shown on the topos as being Southeast of Jone's Ford and it's ranch house is described in "
Results_of_Spirit_Leveling_in_Arizona_1899-1909" as being 600' NE of BM1382 PHNX. I haven't been able to find the benchmark or any sign of a ranch house. Here's what the nearby area looks like. It's mostly mesquite bosque with a few scattered clearings.
I drove out to Cottonwood Creek via FR104 to see what was left of Stewart's Camp (
1907 Roosevelt topo). It was a locale described in a rodeo story in the Coolidge book. I took the Beeline Highway east to the turnoff to Four Peaks then drove on to the intersection with FR401. On the way to Stewart's Camp, not too far along FR401, there's a cattleguard in the roadway and soon afterward a stockyard with an old scales.
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Stockyard with scales in background |
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Stockyards with Superstition Mtn in background |
Surprisingly, FR401 was a good road all the way to Cottonwood Creek. It was, of course, dirt but there were very few potholes and not much washboarding. There's still a lot remaining of the old stock camp. The most evident are corrals, a large water tank and some scattered stone/cement foundations.
Sadly, the area hasn't been treated very gently. Folks had used the rear of the water tank for a toilet and there was graffiti sprayed all over it. There also appeared to be someone homesteading in their mini-van. Driving down here I was reminded why I don't do much hiking near Forest Service roads. As usual, there was a lot of target shooting going on. Good or bad, it's pretty disconcerting for hikers.
I've been doing a bit of research on some characters of the era and will try and post stuff as I get more info.
Adios